Some birthdays are more special than others, and some projects are more challenging than others. My “Joan Wiggle Dress” represents both. The pattern was the reason why I joined Gertie’s Patreon in the first place, but the striped, stretchy Ponte that is required for the chevron pattern was surprisingly hard to find. After several twists and turns my research led to a mauve stretch lace with a wave pattern (of all things) in an online shop. Several months later I found the perfect backdrop in a brick-and-mortar shop: silver faux leather. Never have I sewn lace or faux leather — this project was going to match the birthday in uniqueness.

While the pattern is simple and comes together quickly, the materials were a challenge: Lace is tricky, faux leather too thick to handle, and together they spell trouble. I did a lot of research on sewing techniques and received savvy advice in a local haberdashery shop that has sadly closed since. Without that expert lady there, this project would have failed spectacularly.

Here’s some notes on the process:

• Three prototypes
• Test-wash everything
• One-shot sewing only, no ripping open of seams. Clippers are your best friends – every pin, every needle leaves permanent holes.
• Adjusted the height (easy) and orientation of the bust dart (hard). Many finished dresses show a “V”-shaped bust dart instead of a straight line, and I wanted a straight one too.
• So much cold sweat lost over matching up the lace on the vertical front seam
• Thank you, shop lady: Faux leather dulls the needle in the blink of an eye, so do not use the overlocker or its knife. Changed Jeans needles twice on my regular sewing machine.
• Use the lace like interlining and sew it onto the underlying faux leather, then treat as one
• To achieve this, use wash-away stay tape to fix the lace onto the seam allowance of the feaux leather, then zigzag the two together
• Feaux leather does not need to be finished and can be left untreated
• Thank you, shop lady: A wash-away film called “Avalon” from Madeira is used for quilting, but I used it to sew together the bust darts. Sew the film just inside the bust dart seams onto the right side of the interlined fabric, then close the bust dart. That way, the lace does not shift on the slippery feaux leather and you get precise seams.
• Hand sewing. So much hand sewing. I sewed all the seams by hand and finished the hem with a lace band.
• Best worn with an underdress

The amount of XP gained during this project definitely unlocked a new sewing skill level: The dress turned into an absolute success! This marvelous Joan Wiggle Dress is the first glamour item in my wardrobe, and it shall be worn on many fancy occasions to come. Also the faux leather feels like a second skin and still the dress is comfortable to wear for hours. If ever I can find striped Ponte, there shall be a twin for less glamorous events.

Last modified on 2025-09-13